PA008 - 1830s-1840s Small-Fall Trowsers with Frog Pockets Pattern. This pattern is multi-sized and has two waist option sizes, please select the correct size. Small - Waist 28-42" and Large - Waist 44"-52". You can make dress trowsers that close with a small fall and has frog pockets pleated work trowsers. Cossacks, drafted from the 1837 The Tailor's Masterpiece can also be made with this pattern. The original fabrics were blue jean and fine brown wool broadcloth. Blue jean was a very popular fabric in the early to mid-nineteenth century. It is a twill weave with a cotton warp and wool filler. Jean can be purchased in many color variations from: Thistle Hill Weavers, Baxter Rd, RD 2 box 75, Cherry Valley, NY 13320. Order the pattern in one of the two waist sizes: Sizes 28"-42", and Sizes 44"- 52". These small-fall trowsers were copied from originals in the collections at the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency in Springfield, Illinois. While the trowsers were copied from the originals, the pattern was drafted from the 1837 trowsers draft in The Tailor's Masterpiece. The construction is true to the originals.
The fabric requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". In 45"- wide fabric, purchase: 3 yards for sizes 28"-42" and 3-1/8 yards for sizes 44"-52".
FABRICS: The original trowsers were made of brown wool broadcloth. A second pair was made from a copy of the first in navy blue wool broadcloth. Substitute fabrics are: cotton sateen; light-weight cotton duck; linen; drill in white or blue, or woven into stripes, check, or plaid; and fine wool jean. Do not purchase worsted wool.
NOTIONS: The original lining, pocketing, and facing fabric is a white, medium-weight cotton. Of 45"-wide lining fabric, cut 7/8 Yd. Two-ply hand-sewing silk thread and 60/2 wet-spun linen thread to match fabric. Nine 5/8" five-holed, dyed or plain bone buttons.
This is a pattern package rich with information. It is divided into seven sections:
• Historical Notes by Bill Combs - Briefly summarizes the introduction of small-fall trowsers and where they were worn after they were no longer fashionable.
• Fabric Glossary - A small glossary of fabrics mentioned in the small-fall trower notes.
• Pattern Drafts 1800-1838 - Illustrates trowser drafts from 1800-1838 and the differences and similarities between tailor-made and ready-made garments.
• Construction Notes - Explains how to measure and how to wear mid-19th-century trowsers.
• Essentials of Tailoring Outlines the minimum tools needed by a journeyman tailor or a home tailoress, how to make them, and their uses.
• Historical Stitches Illustrates the stitches used to construct the original trousers.
• Making Up Describes and illustrates in detail how to make a pair of reproduction trowsers similar to the originals.
Matching Patterns: If wearing the trowsers for the first quarter of the nineteenth century, order shirt patterns KK4101 or KK4102 . If wearing the trowsers for the mid nineteenth-century, consider ordering PP006 Drawers, PA007 -Two Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts, PA018-Single-Breasted Vest, and PA009-Double-Breasted Paletot. War of 1812, Fur Trade Era, Late Colonial Era Pants, Early Romantic Era Pants, Early Western Expansion pants.
1830s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by an emphasis on breadth, initially at the shoulder and later in the hips, in contrast to the narrower silhouettes that had predominated between 1800 and the 1820s.
Women's costume featured larger sleeves than were worn in any period before or since, which were accompanied by elaborate hairstyles and large hats.
The prevalent trend of Romanticism from the 1820s through the mid-1840s, with its emphasis on strong emotion as a source of aesthetic experience and its recognition of the picturesque, was reflected in fashion as in other arts. Items of historical dress including neck ruffs, ferronieres (jeweled headbands worn across the forehead), and sleeves based on styles of earlier periods were popular.
Innovations in roller printing on textiles introduced new dress fabrics. Rich colors such as the Turkey red of the 1820s were still found, but delicate floral prints on light backgrounds were increasingly popular. More precise printing eliminated the need for dark outlines on printed designs, and new green dyes appeared in patterns of grasses, ferns, and unusual florals. Combinations of florals and stripes were fashionable.
Overall, both men's and women's fashion showed width at the shoulder above a tiny waist. Men's coats were padded in the shoulders and across the chest, while women's shoulders sloped to huge sleeves. (Wikipedia)